Simple green cutting fluid?
Just using SImple Green All Purpose Cleaner as a cutting fluid mixed 50/50 with water. Cheap, non toxic and non rust promoting. A higher specific gravity than water so the cut steel is really well held in suspension for this type of work. Oil is a terrible cutting fluid for this type of sharpening. It is a lubricant which produces a sliding space and that is not what we want. We want clean flushed interaction between the cutting media and the tool. Oil will foul and contaminate a diamond stone.
This is Jesse (foreground) snuggling with Papi. Poor Jesse was found running the streets. He has an injured front shoulder we hope will heal. Someone was very ugly to him because he is just terrified of men. I have to do my highest Itchy and Scratchy voice and even then he has only come to me a few times. He is Sue’s shadow. We think he is about 2 although he has that puppy face. Since Papi is the most confident 12 lb badass on the planet, we are are hoping a month or two at the Dachshund spa will help put his past behind him. His name on the CTDR website is Paddy. We named him after Jesse Pinkman. Sweet but a little damaged and beat up.
Today the 48” Starrett precision machined straight edge I ordered arrived. Oh baby it is lovely. I was really impressed how it was shipped strapped to a board that had been milled flat. A tool I have confidence in.
I am finishing a hickory top dining table. Waterlox original sealer/finisher has been recommended. Your thoughts? I am looking for a hand-rubbed, satin finish that warms/darkens the wood tone without becoming yellowish. Thanks!
Waterlox Sealer/Finish Medium Sheen is my exclusive finish and I think the best there is. They make a Satin product but it is crap. After cure (30 days) if the finish is too bright (it flattens by 50% during cure) I recommend a standard automotive rubbing compound and it will look and feel fantastic. I personally like a brighter finish so I only flatten if forced to, which is not often.
This really shows the power of a work table top with the 20mm hole pattern for clamping fixtures. This is a tapered dovetailed case where the sides are angled 5deg to the top and bottom. In this setup I have already cut the tails and am aligning and transferring the pin marks from them to be cut by hand. Clamps are my friends.
This is the new VerySuperCool Tools Euro adjustable throat t-square for format sliding table saws. You can see I do not have a Euro style saw, but for demo purposes I clamped a blade at the far left edge of the cast iron top between my sliding table to simulate the Euro configuration. This new fence allows for full movement to blade without interfering with sliding table. This fence will now allow all those people who are fed up with their stock round rail fences to now switch to a Biesemeyer style rail that can easily be fabricated in either SAE or metric steel depending on availability. Check out a video introduction to its features if you have a few minutes at the link above.
hi woodman, i just got a p100f really cheap but the blades are super dull. i'll have them sharpened but i would like another set. unfortunately, i can't find any for less than $120. is that just what they cost or is there a substitute blade or other option? thanks
There are no substitutes I know of. They have a very unique holding shape. Why buy more knives if those still have life? I have only bought one replacement set in 28 years of professional use. I have a complete video series on my YouTube channel about using a Makita 9820-2 horizontal waterstone to put a better than factory edge on planer/jointer knives.
That look of satisfaction is because I found 4 Made In USA Jorgensen handscrews by the Adjustable Clamp Co, Chicago ILL mixed in with the Chinese versions they have switched to at my favorite local hardware store, Breed & Co. And not only did Breed’s have a good price they also gave me 10% off. I went in just for foam brushes and found treasure.
I could not help bringing a little dachshund joy to my new finishing work station. The is a copy of the brilliant single line drawing Pablo Picasso did of his beloved dachshund Lump.
My problem as a woodworker is I can build so much faster than I can finish my pieces. So I spend a lot of time coming up with finishing and more importantly drying setups that take up space and grind me to a halt. That is a thing of the past with the Finish Master 9000 Work Station (just kidding but that’s what it feels like). I raided my steel rack hard and only had to buy a few sticks of 1x2” 11gauge. The verticals are stout 2x2x 1/4”. All the pipes are my favorite combination of 1 1/4 and 1” Sch 40 which sleeve together just right. The ply is reused sawhorse worktable tops primed and painted with leftover paint. 13’ of work space. 48 receivers. This covered open air area has about a foot of fall so I designed this with scaffold leveling jacks. I had it dialed in level using string and level and winding sticks in about 10 minutes. I can hang my full body weight on any one of the red pipes. Flexible storage for long stock or shelves below. Welding for woodworkers. Yes indeed.
My old auto darkening welding helmet died yesterday. Luck would have it that this ArcOne helmet was on a clearance table at my local store, Matheson Tri Gas, and it was $100 off the regular price.
The crazy pattern is really not my style, but it is a great hood. Fantastic field of vision and simple digital controls and a very comfortable fit make this a lucky buy for me. Papi did not seem to care. He knew his Big Daddy was in there.
I made a couple of tool organizers yesterday. These are really handy for keeping tools I am using off my work surface, safe and undamaged, but always at the ready. One of the biggest issues is keeping chisels’ edges perfect, and keeping the four Japanese saws I am always using accessible, as well as rulers, squares, pliers, wrenches, awls, etc. I made a video series on the operations to make these and will post it on askwoodman.tv