This is the shop made box within a box drill holder setup I have used in several of my video series. I am using it here to accurately bore a precision 1” hole over 10” deep. Both Moxon jaws and the Texas Roubo truss body all had to be drilled in place from one side without moving any of the components for perfect hole alignment for the bronze bearings and Acme screws to all line up. I was only able to drill part depth before adding a bit extender. Since the extenders introduce wobble, I added a sacrificial wood block between the truss to keep the bit running true between change outs. All of this is going to be covered in video detail soon on AskWoodMan.tv.
This bed design is how I learned to be a woodworker. I made this bed hundreds of times but had not made one in 23 years until now. I really could not improve on the design even though I have many more skills. The large drawer has wooden wheels with bronze bearings and steel axles. There are sliding lids to keep the dust bunnies out. The bed side table is cut at 5 deg on the sides and front to match the 5 deg legs. The case, drawers and big drawer are all through dovetailed. The bed can be disassembled very easily for shipping or install. I will be uploading a complete detailed video series about every aspect of building this bed, table and drawer on https://www.youtube.com/user/askwoodman and there will be plans coming soon also.
This is my Texas Roubo workbench that I made three years ago and posted a very detailed video series on AskWoodMan.tv http://vsctools.com/diy-portable-moxon-vise/ I have recently added the double Moxon to the bench and could not be happier with the results. You will notice the screws can be shifted to offer very large capacity for holding drawers which are always tough to hold. There will be complete detailed plans for the the Roubo plus double Moxons coming soon. As well as a video series on the Moxon fabrication.
I just posted a series on building a large capacity style of Moxon vise I recently designed. There will be fully complete white oak Moxons, hardware kits and complete plans for this design available. The picture shows four Moxons with the acme screws adjusted to different vise capacities. http://www.vsctools.com/portable-moxon-vise
This was sunset looking east from The Great Lawn in Zilker Park with the sun shining off this towering super cell thunderstorm that looked like it was over Giddings (50-60 miles) from what I could gather from radar on my phone. These iPhone pics did not do this sight justice. Spac-diddly-tacular.
Papi and I walked home to South Austin from The University yesterday. These pictures were taken along Red River Street across from Brackenridge Hospital. I was standing on a handrail looking over the 10’ construction fence at Waterloo Park where the Waller Creek flood control tunnel starts. I assume I am looking at the flood water channel from the creek to that large cylindrical water intake into the tunnel. When this is done expect massive development along the creek. I will post some tunnel terminus pictures at Lady Bird Lake soon.
I get it that you are now using tongue oil. I also have tongue oil but should I use a wood pre conditioner before the oil
No conditioner required. Just thinned product for initial penetration.
Project wood-Cherry. Sanding is complete. Nearest waterlox is 45 min drive and costs $75.00 a gallon. Using Fast drying Minwax polyurethane. Should I use a Wood pre conditioner before applying polyurethane?
I don’t know what you should do because I do not use poly for anything. I am no longer using Waterlox, but have switched to Sutherland Welles line of polymerizing tung oil products.
I turned three hand plane knobs for a small batch of chisel planes my friends are making. This is lyptus hand turned on my lathe held in a 4-jaw chuck. I did the drilling and countersinking with a Jacobs chuck mounted in a Morse taper in the lathe tail stock. I don’t turn much wood anymore so this was fun. And all my knuckles survived the 4-jaw chuck with only minor damage.
I just uploaded 2 more videos in my Miter Gauge Upgrade series. In the latest two I show how I standardized the wood face against the 1x1 extrusion stiffener and then built an adjustable flag stop out of wood, hardware and a scrap of 6mm aluminum. Watch Videos.
That set of intermediate sized linesman pliers was my first purchase of a Knipex hand tool. My other linesman pliers are too big for everyday shop use. I was really impressed with the German tool steel and overall quality at such a competitive price, and since Klein is now farming a lot of their tools to China, my loyalty has waned. To get to the point. I was perusing a catalog and was looking at the Knipex tools when I spied this set of electricians pliers. Wire cutter, stripper, crimper, grabber and needle nose pliers all in one sleek package. Perfect for the shop.The fit and finish is excellent and I got them on Amazon for $29.99. Danke.
This is my latest art piece titled “When Clamps Attack”. I will open the bidding at $50,000. (Snark alert).
I really like when careful machine setup gives perfect results. Here I am boring 1” holes through almost 4” of wenge and lyptus for a Moxon vise I am making. My drill press with the telescoping outrigger supports and the table brace make cumbersome very heavy drilling setups possible to do very accurately.
My motor change out on my Hitachi CB75F is complete. I no longer have to listen to that screaming commutator motor. My new 3hp 3phase high torque motor is so quiet I can for the first time hear the workings of the saw. In this pic I have a 10mm blade and the roller bearing scrolling attachments in place. To change over to the 75mm resaw setup takes about 10 minutes. I made a complete video series of all aspects of this motor change out from welding the new bracket, to pulley calculations, to blade sharpening, to machine tuneup. I will post it soon on my AskWoodMan.TV channel.
I tuned up my General 350 table saw this morning. I have a precision disc mounted on the arbor. That is my precision Starrett straight edge sitting on 1-2-3 blocks referencing off the disc. I made a dial indicator holder that attached to my miter gauge bar and was able to set parallel to 1/1000th measured on the indicator. It was as simple as loosening the four corner cap screws of the cast iron top and bumping the saw base with a rubber mallet until it came true. Tightened the bolts and checked for parallel and got back to work.