This is my latest art piece titled “When Clamps Attack”. I will open the bidding at $50,000. (Snark alert).
I really like when careful machine setup gives perfect results. Here I am boring 1” holes through almost 4” of wenge and lyptus for a Moxon vise I am making. My drill press with the telescoping outrigger supports and the table brace make cumbersome very heavy drilling setups possible to do very accurately.
My motor change out on my Hitachi CB75F is complete. I no longer have to listen to that screaming commutator motor. My new 3hp 3phase high torque motor is so quiet I can for the first time hear the workings of the saw. In this pic I have a 10mm blade and the roller bearing scrolling attachments in place. To change over to the 75mm resaw setup takes about 10 minutes. I made a complete video series of all aspects of this motor change out from welding the new bracket, to pulley calculations, to blade sharpening, to machine tuneup. I will post it soon on my AskWoodMan.TV channel.
I tuned up my General 350 table saw this morning. I have a precision disc mounted on the arbor. That is my precision Starrett straight edge sitting on 1-2-3 blocks referencing off the disc. I made a dial indicator holder that attached to my miter gauge bar and was able to set parallel to 1/1000th measured on the indicator. It was as simple as loosening the four corner cap screws of the cast iron top and bumping the saw base with a rubber mallet until it came true. Tightened the bolts and checked for parallel and got back to work.
I made some good progress this afternoon on the flange mounted motor bracket for my Hitachi CB75F motor change out. There will be lateral as well as camber adjustment. The plate is 3/8” 4140. Tomorrow I just have to get the tensioner dialed in and get some paint on it.
The transformation started today. I have had the Hitachi CB75F for almost 25 years and have always hated that screaming commutator motor. The big silver motor is a 3phase 3HP that will replace it. I only have single phase power but note the magic box under the watchful gaze of Bogart. That is a Mitsubishi variable frequency drive. This device can take any power input and convert it to any international 3 phase voltage in either 50 or 60 hz. I will have to weld up a new motor bracket. I also had to get a new pulley machined to match the new motor rpm to the desired bandsaw output. I am filming a full series about all aspects of this project. The new motor is as quiet as a kitten sleeping.
I am hoping 2014 will be the year I get a handle on the gif. This was taken from a series I just posted on my AskWoodMan.tv channel: DIY BIESEMEYER BANDSAW GUIDE RAILS. I was making a shorty Biesemeyer guide rail for my business partner’s new 1979 Powermatic bandsaw. The Milwaukee Portaband is an amazing machine to cut steel accurately and safely.
HAPPY NEW YEAR! It’s a new year and VerySuperCool Tools has a new product. It’s a hole saw accessory called the Plug Popper: a hole saw plug removal tool. About 7 years ago I got so fed up trying to remove plugs from my hole saws I invented this simple cam lever tool. Using this tool while using hole saws have saved me countless hours and has taken the frustration factor to zero. It works with any brand or any size hole saw! And, it’s made in the USA. Sweeeet.
Thanks for all the helpful info. I would like to know what you think of ipe for the legs on the roubo or the multi-function table. I have a lot of 4x material and don't want to use it where i have to over machine it. only a few cuts and holes for the legs. Also can it be edge glued in 5/4 dimension?
Sure ipe would be fine. The beauty about both designs is that the wood choice is not that important because the designs are so over the top. Both of my builds were done with what I had on hand left over from other jobs or acquired salvage. Feel free to write me at gmail if you have any questions about either build. I am getting close to adding a Moxon vise setup to my Roubo. A machinist friend is setting me up with the acme threaded hardware. I will of course shoot video of the install. Have a great Christmas. Allan
Simple green cutting fluid?
Just using SImple Green All Purpose Cleaner as a cutting fluid mixed 50/50 with water. Cheap, non toxic and non rust promoting. A higher specific gravity than water so the cut steel is really well held in suspension for this type of work. Oil is a terrible cutting fluid for this type of sharpening. It is a lubricant which produces a sliding space and that is not what we want. We want clean flushed interaction between the cutting media and the tool. Oil will foul and contaminate a diamond stone.
This is Jesse (foreground) snuggling with Papi. Poor Jesse was found running the streets. He has an injured front shoulder we hope will heal. Someone was very ugly to him because he is just terrified of men. I have to do my highest Itchy and Scratchy voice and even then he has only come to me a few times. He is Sue’s shadow. We think he is about 2 although he has that puppy face. Since Papi is the most confident 12 lb badass on the planet, we are are hoping a month or two at the Dachshund spa will help put his past behind him. His name on the CTDR website is Paddy. We named him after Jesse Pinkman. Sweet but a little damaged and beat up.
Today the 48” Starrett precision machined straight edge I ordered arrived. Oh baby it is lovely. I was really impressed how it was shipped strapped to a board that had been milled flat. A tool I have confidence in.
I am finishing a hickory top dining table. Waterlox original sealer/finisher has been recommended. Your thoughts? I am looking for a hand-rubbed, satin finish that warms/darkens the wood tone without becoming yellowish. Thanks!
Waterlox Sealer/Finish Medium Sheen is my exclusive finish and I think the best there is. They make a Satin product but it is crap. After cure (30 days) if the finish is too bright (it flattens by 50% during cure) I recommend a standard automotive rubbing compound and it will look and feel fantastic. I personally like a brighter finish so I only flatten if forced to, which is not often.